The night train from Stockholm takes about seventeen hours, and I recommend every one of them. You fall asleep among pine trees and wake up above the tree line, next to a lake that is still half frozen in June.
An easy walk along the canyon, mostly to get used to the light. The sun does not set; it just rolls along the horizon and makes it very hard to decide when dinner is.
A longer loop towards the lake. Lots of snow patches, very loud birds, and the moment when the sole of my old boot quietly said goodbye. Duct tape got me back, barely.
Chairlift up the mountain, slow walk down, coffee, train home. Note for future me: bring an eye mask, new boots and twice as much mosquito repellent as seems reasonable.