Attempts one to three were edible, in the sense that nobody got hurt. They were also flat, dense and slightly grey. This time I changed three things at once, which is bad science but good bread.
500 g bread flour 350 g water 100 g starter (100% hydration) 10 g salt bulk: ~5 h at 23 °C, 4 sets of stretch and fold cold proof: 16 h at 4 °C bake: 20 min lid on at 250 °C, 22 min lid off at 230 °C
The result has an ear, an open-ish crumb and a crust that crackles while it cools. Next time: a bit of whole wheat, and maybe scoring at a shallower angle.